How to Wash and Store Silk Charmeuse at Home
Silk charmeuse is a weave, not a fibre type. The charmeuse weave produces a fabric with a high-sheen face and a matte back, and the bias cut used in slips and camisoles means the fabric is under slight tension in all directions when worn. Both of these facts affect how the garment should be washed and stored.
Hand-Washing: Temperature and Detergent
Cold water is the correct temperature for silk charmeuse. Warm water relaxes the silk fibres and can cause the fabric to lose its shape, particularly in a bias-cut garment where the tension of the cut is part of the structure. Fill a basin with cold water and add a small amount of mild detergent, the kind sold for delicate fabrics. Avoid anything with enzymes, bleach, or brightening agents.
Submerge the garment and move it gently through the water for two to three minutes. Do not scrub, do not twist, and do not leave it to soak. Rinse in clean cold water until the water runs clear.
Drying Without Distortion
Lay the garment flat on a clean, dry towel. Roll the towel gently to absorb excess water, then unroll and transfer the garment to a second dry towel or a flat drying rack. Do not hang a wet silk garment. The weight of the water will stretch the fabric along the bias, and the distortion is difficult to reverse.
Drying time in a well-ventilated room is usually four to six hours. In the humid months of a Japanese summer, a fan directed at the garment (not directly on it) can help without introducing heat.
Storage Between Wears
Silk charmeuse should be stored flat or loosely rolled, not folded on a sharp crease. A sharp fold held over time will weaken the fibres at the fold line. If hanging is the only option, use a padded hanger and ensure the garment is completely dry before hanging.
Cedar blocks are a reasonable moth deterrent for a silk wardrobe. Avoid direct contact between cedar and the fabric; place the block in the same drawer or box, not touching the garment.
A silk slip that is washed correctly after every two or three wears and stored flat will hold its drape for many years. The Nishijin charmeuse used in the Soie Nue line has been in some clients' wardrobes since 2019 with no visible change in hand or sheen.